Late Winter / Early Spring Tasks for the Backyard Fruit Garden and Orchard
Late winter and early spring weather can be unpredictable and erratic in many locations. It usually is in ours. And while it can be a relatively low key period (if you so choose) compared to the hustle and bustle of mid- to late-spring and summer, there is still a fair amount that can be done out in the fruit garden and orchard.
So, read on below and check out some of the tasks you can be doing right now for strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, grapes, apples, pears, peaches and apricots.
Strawberries
Spring is the primary season for planting strawberries. You can plant them directly in the ground, in raised beds, in hanging pots, in regular pots and other containers. Late winter and early spring are key times for preparing your strawberry planting areas for a productive season (if they’re not still sitting under a layer of snow). Start by cleaning up any dead foliage from the previous year. This will help prevent the spread of fungal diseases and allow new growth to emerge without competition from old, decaying leaves because you’ve provided better airflow and light.
Next, check for any frost damage and, if necessary, remove any damaged parts of the plant. You can help to prevent frost damaged plants by mulching with a good layer of straw or shredded leaves in late fall. This will help to protect the crowns of your strawberry plants from frosts and can be moved below the plants to retain moisture once the weather warms and keep the fruit off the ground.
The promise of succulent summer days ahead.
Tip: When planting strawberries, don’t bury the crown or plant so that the crown is too high above the soil level. The crown is the short, thickened stem at the base of the plant from which the roots, runners, leaves and fruits will grow.
If you’ve had strawberries in the same space for several years, it may be time to dig them up and dispose of them. If the plant material is free of disease, you can add old plants to the compost pile; however, if the plants do have one of several common diseases that can afflict strawberries (verticillium wilt, red stele, leaf spot), you may be better off just putting them in the garbage or burning them if you have a burn pile.
Tip: It’s common practice to rotate your strawberry patch to new ground after being grown in the same space for several years. Diseases can build up over time and the plants can start to be less productive. So, after about three years, consider digging up and disposing of the plants and establishing your new strawberry patch in another space. You can use your own existing healthy plants to create new plants as they send out runners. Simply pin the little new crown that wants to root when in contact with the ground into a little pot full of potting soil and once you see new growth you can cut the runner away from the parent plant.
Blackberries & Raspberries
Blackberries and raspberries benefit from early spring pruning to ensure a bountiful harvest later in the season. First, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased canes from the previous season (if you haven’t already). For raspberries, you can prune back old canes that fruited the year before, leaving the new growth for this year’s fruiting; however, there’s actually a bit more to pruning depending on the type of raspberry and when they set fruit. Summer bearing raspberries fruit on second year canes. As noted above, you can prune out the old brown canes that set fruit last year. Autumn bearing raspberries will fruit on first year canes and can be cut to the ground after they’re dormant but certainly before spring is in full swing.
For blackberries, cut back any weak or tangled growth, and be sure to thin the plant to allow better airflow and light penetration. You’ll probably have to do some pruning to keep their growth in check and the plants within the boundaries you’ve set for them. Once you've pruned, it's time to tie up the canes (if you haven’t already), especially for blackberry varieties that don’t have an upright growth habit. Installing a trellis or repairing any existing supports will give the plants the space they need to grow upright and maximize fruit production.
Grapes
For grapes, late winter or early spring is the best time for heavy pruning. Grapevines are typically dormant during this period, which makes pruning easier and less stressful for the plant. Begin by cutting back any old, non-productive wood, as well as any dead or damaged vines. Focus on removing older canes that have already produced fruit. Grapes bear fruit on the green shoots that grow from one-year-old canes.
Tip: It’s recommended to remove 70-90% of the wood produced the previous year for the best fruit.
Your reason for growing grapes — juice, jelly, table grapes, homemade wine making, etc. — may determine how you prune and how much you thin the new shoots, the bunches, or even the individual grapes on a bunch. After pruning, ensure that your grapevines are well-supported on a sturdy trellis or arbor. Grapes are heavy growers, so providing strong support will help prevent breakage.
Tip: If you struggle with wasps ravaging your grapes, consider using large organza bags to protect the bunches as they grow all the way through to harvest. This also works for apples, pears, peaches and other fruits you might want to protect.
Apples & Pears
Apple and pear trees benefit from early spring pruning to shape the tree and promote healthy fruiting. Generally, winter pruning will stimulate growth and summer pruning will restrict growth. Start by removing any dead or diseased wood, and look for any crossing branches that might interfere with airflow. Apple trees benefit from branch thinning to allow sunlight to reach the inner branches. This improves fruit quality and helps prevent disease.
Early spring is also the time to apply a dormant spray (also very late fall or early winter after leaf drop) to protect the trees from insects that overwintered on the tree. Typically, a horticultural oil is used for this purpose. Once pruning is complete, consider adding a layer of mulch around the base of the tree to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Pay attention to any early signs of pests or disease as the buds begin to swell, and be ready to address any issues before they get out of hand.
Tip: When pruning and with the intent of opening up the center of the tree, make sure to prune back to an outward facing bud.
Peaches & Apricots
Peach and apricot trees need a little extra attention in late winter or early spring to ensure they thrive. These trees benefit from pruning in late winter, before they start showing signs of new growth. Start by removing any dead or damaged branches, as well as any shoots that are growing inwards toward the center of the tree. Peach trees are often pruned to an open center to allow for better airflow, which helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases.
Since apricot trees are more susceptible to frost damage, avoid pruning too early if you live in a region with late frosts, as they can be especially vulnerable to cold snaps after pruning. Peach and apricot trees also benefit from thinning out some of the smaller branches to allow the larger ones to receive more sunlight and energy for fruit production. After pruning, be sure to apply a layer of mulch to the base of the tree to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. If you didn’t apply a dormant spray earlier, now is a good time to do so to help mitigate pests that may overwinter on the tree.
Tip: Fertilize a peach or apricot tree in early spring, but only if it needs it. Which means that because they’re typically vigorous growing trees, trying to force faster growth should be avoided. It can result in weaker trees that may break easily, are more susceptible to insects, or are short lived.
