Pleaching Hornbeams
I first became intrigued by the idea of trying my hand at pleaching after seeing lovely green avenues in several English country gardens that were flanked by clipped “hedges on stilts”. The visual impact was equal parts architectural and botanical. The visual interest and privacy afforded by a row or two of pleached trees was something I knew I wanted to try in my own garden. After a fair amount of research, I decided to use hornbeams (Carpinus betulus) for the project. They are often cited as a good tree for pleaching because of their ability to regenerate well after pruning, which is a key trait for pleached frameworks that require consistent shaping and training. Sources said they can be cut back hard and will resprout, often vigorously.
How to Pleach Hornbeams: A Guide to Green Architecture
In the world of garden design, I think one of the most visually striking and architecturally elegant techniques is that of pleaching trees. Rooted in centuries-old traditions from formal European gardens, pleaching involves training trees into flat, interwoven panels—essentially living fences or leafy walls. Among the best trees for this horticultural art form is the hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), a deciduous tree loved for its dense foliage, pliable young branches, and strong architectural form. Other trees often used include Red-twigged lime (Tilia platyphyllos ‘Rubra’) and Crab apple Everest (Malus ‘Everest’).
Whether you’re creating a screen for privacy, defining garden rooms, or simply looking to add a layer of historic charm to your landscape, pleaching hornbeams can be both practical and beautiful. This guide walks you through everything you need to know—from why pleaching is worth considering, to how to do it, and what other trees are ideal for this technique.
Why Pleach Trees?
Pleaching is more than a stylistic flourish—it’s a smart, space-efficient way to create natural structures that serve multiple purposes:
Privacy: Create a living screen without building a fence.
Shade: Form a green canopy over paths or benches.
Windbreaks: Dense foliage acts as a natural wind buffer.
Aesthetic Structure: Pleached trees add symmetry, rhythm, and architecture to the landscape.
Eco-Friendly Alternative to Walls: Unlike fences, pleached trees photosynthesize, support biodiversity, and improve air quality.
Hornbeam is especially suited for pleaching thanks to its durability, fine branching habit, and tolerance to hard pruning. Even when its leaves turn golden brown and dry in winter, they often cling to branches, offering year-round (or extended season) screening.
How to Pleach Hornbeam Trees
Pleaching is a long-term commitment that rewards patience. Here’s how to do it step-by-step:
1. Plan Your Layout
Choose the location wisely—pleached trees require sunlight and adequate space.
A single row is most common, but double rows (for a denser wall) are possible.
Space the trees 1.5 to 2 meters (5–6.5 feet) apart depending on desired density and eventual branch span.
Install a horizontal support frame (usually with sturdy posts and wires) at the desired height—typically 1.8 to 2.5 meters (6–8 feet) off the ground for screening, or lower for hedging. I used bamboo for my pleaching frames and larger diameter bamboo for the bottom horizontal support that ties multiple square bamboo pleaching frames together.
2. Select Young Trees
Use feathered whips or 2-3 year-old trees that are:
Straight-trunked
1.5 to 2.5 meters tall
With well-positioned lateral shoots that are flexible enough to train onto the bamboo frame
3. Planting
Dig holes twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep.
Backfill and water thoroughly.
Stake each tree vertically and ensure alignment across the row. Use two stakes/small posts on two opposite sides of the trunk and install some horizontal ‘lashing’ between the two stakes at the top to keep from rocking in the wind (the frame and tied in branches will act like a sail).
4. Establish the Framework
Start training the branches after your young tree has had a chance to root into its new location but before the branches start getting too thick and rigid to train without difficulty or breaking.
Select 2-3 strong lateral branches and bend them horizontally along the support wires or bamboo framework.
Tie the branches loosely with soft ties, allowing for growth and movement.
Remove any competing upright shoots to focus energy on the desired framework.
Each year, extend and tie new shoots along the wire frame to lengthen the pleached layer. Use flexible branches and train them gradually—avoid forcing stiff wood.
5. Maintenance Pruning
Hornbeams respond well to pruning, which is essential to maintain the structure:
Summer (late July–August): Trim side shoots to maintain the flat surface and encourage density.
Winter (February–March): Structural pruning. Remove unwanted branches and reinforce the framework.
Always cut above a bud, and use sharp, clean tools.
6. Patience and Precision
It may take 3–5 years for the framework to fully form. With annual maintenance, your hornbeams will knit into a seamless panel. You can expand vertically or horizontally depending on your needs.
Advanced Pleaching Techniques
Once you master the basics, explore more creative methods:
Box Pleach: Create a squared-off tree “wall” with trimmed tops and sides.
Canopy Pleach: Raise the framework to head height and create a green roof or arch.
Interweaving (Plashing): Gently interlace branches to grow together for a lattice effect.
Best Trees for Pleaching (Besides Hornbeam)
Hornbeam may be a favorite, but it’s not your only option. These species also take well to pleaching:
1. Beech (Fagus sylvatica)
Offers brilliant autumn color and retains coppery leaves through winter.
Slightly less tolerant of poor soils than hornbeam.
2. Lime/Linden (Tilia cordata or T. platyphyllos)
Popular in traditional European pleached avenues.
Fast-growing, with large, heart-shaped leaves.
3. Apple (Malus species)
Combines pleaching with fruit production.
Best for lower frameworks due to limited height and spread.
4. Crabapple (Malus sylvestris)
Great for floral interest in spring and small fruit in autumn.
Can be used decoratively or for wildlife gardens.
5. Plane (Platanus × acerifolia)
Large leaves, good for urban environments.
Often used in grand pleached avenues in cities like Paris and London.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping structure: Don’t rely solely on ties; use a fixed wire or trellis.
Over-pruning: While hornbeams tolerate heavy pruning, excessive cuts at the wrong time can shock the tree.
Ignoring pests: Watch for aphids, mildew, and caterpillars, especially in dense foliage.
Choosing the wrong tree: Avoid trees with brittle branches or poor regrowth from pruning (e.g., conifers, maples).
Final Thoughts
Pleaching hornbeams is both an art and a science—one that connects us to centuries of horticultural tradition while providing solutions to modern landscape needs. With patience and attention, your pleached trees will transform your space into something living, refined, and truly timeless.
From urban courtyards to grand country gardens, pleaching isn’t just about function—it’s a sculptural expression of design, nature, and intention.
Have you tried pleaching in your own garden? Let me know in the comments below.
